Typical Appliance Measurements to Consider When Building Cabinets

Source: momentsunderglass

Freestanding kitchen range

Some consideration is required in calculating the proper allowance for the kitchen range. A very common width for this unit is 30 in. (Fig 1-20). If cabinets are to be placed on either or both sides of the stove, a certain amount must be planned to allow the unit to slide into place; 1/8 to 1/4 in. is usually enough for this. 

Please remember this tip: Whether it is an appliance or a cabinet, some allowance or “play” must be planned for so that the unit will slide or fit into place. A 30-in cabinet or stove will not slide  into a 30-in. opening. 

Dishwashers, range hoods, drop-in ranges, countertop cooking units, and wall ovens

The procedure on most of these units that are of the built-in type is to obtain the installation specification sheet from the appliance dealer and follow the instructions as described. 

For general plan and layout purposes these sizes will suffice:

Dishwasher:  23 7/8-in. unit width. 24-in. cabinet opening required. Unit adjusts in height from 34 to 34 1/2-in.

Wall Oven:  24-in. door. 22-in. cabinet opening required. 

Fig. 1-20: Details for Built-in appliances

Countertop stove unit: Requires a 30- or 36-in. base cabinet below. Depending on the size of the unit. Countertop cutout to manufacturer’s specifications (fig 1-21).

Range hoods: Varies with the size of range. 30 and 36 in. are most common. If ducts are required, they must be planned for in the cabinet. Only a 1/16- to 1/8-in. allowance required. (fig 1-22).

Drop-in range: Varies with the range size. 30 and 36 in. are most common. Follow manufacturer’s specification carefully. 

Sinks

Ninety-nine percent of kitchen sinks are two types:

1. Cast iron porcelain-enameled in size 32 in. X 21 in., double bowl (fig 1-23). These are installed with a special rim. The countertop cutout required is 32 3/8 in. X 21 3/8 in. The rim can be used as a template for the rounded corners of the cutout., or the box in which the rim is packed usually has a template and installation directions printed on it. Special clips installed from below hold the sink and rim in the countertop. Plumber’s putty or caulking compound seals the trim. 
   
   
2. 33 in. X 22 in. self-rimmed stainless steel two-bowl sink. This sink also requires 32 3/8 X 21 3/8  countertop cutout. (fig 1-24). The manufacturer furnishes installation instructions and cutout template on the shipping box. In most instances the installation of the sink is done by plumber. The cutout is the job of the cabinetmaker. More detailed instructions are given in Chapter 10.

In both instances the cabinet opening designed into the base cabinet is 32 in. wide. There a wide variety of sink styles on the market (fig 1-25 and 1-26). The cabinetmaker should again work from the manufacturer’s installation instruction. In practically every case, the width of the cabinet opening is designed to be the same size as the width of the sink. 

Problems Concerning Refrigerators When Building the Cabinets

How much be allowed for the width of the refrigerator? 

This will depend on where the refrigerator will be placed and the style and age of the unit. Older refrigerators must be given a “door-opening allowance” if they are located between cabinets or between a cabinet and a wall. Usually, 3 in. is sufficient. Check the refrigerator itself to determine if this allowance is necessary (fig 1-19). If the refrigerator is one of the newer designs, this door opening allowance is not necessary, as the refrigerator door when opened not extend beyond the edge of the main part of the unit. If this is the case, 1/2 to 1 in. allowance on each side of the refrigerator is sufficient for pushing the unit in place and for proper air circulation. Thus if the refrigerator measures 32 in. at its widest, 33 to 34 in. is sufficient allowance even if the unit is flanked by cabinets or a wall. 

Fig. 1-19: Modern Refrigerators need approximately 1/2 in. on each side

Kitchen Cabinet Measurements

Source: kitchentoday

Once the general kitchen layout has been decided on, the next – and extremely important job – is to prepare a detailed and dimensioned working plan for the cabinets themselves. Some experience with a T-square, triangle and drawing board will be of great help in this department. A scale of 1” = 1’ -0” is quite convenient for cabinet details.

For purpose of learning the cabinet system presented in this blog, a fairly simple straight wall of cabinets is presented as an example. Figure 1-16 describes the kitchen in which the model set of cabinets will theoretically be placed. The model cabinet presented in the text will be concerned only with the cabinets to be installed on the window wall, as illustrated in Fig. 1-17. By studying the text and the drawings it should be possible for a competent craftsperson to adapt these lessons to an actual cabinet project.

Fig. 1-16: Kitchen Ready to be Measured

Fig. 1-17: Floor Plan of the Kitchen

Measuring the Space for Cabinets

Probably nothing is more important or basic to an accurate detail than the on-site measurements. On new construction these measurements are commonly taken on completion of the drywall application. The measuring is somewhat simplified, too, if the trim molding has been applied to the windows and doors. If the trim has not been applied, allowance will have to be made for the width of the trim being used and the application technique of the installer. If the carpenter doing the work pencil marking the wall where the trim will be positioned when applied. This will vary somewhat between carpenters, so by having him mark exactly where the trim will be applied makes it possible to obtain an accurate measurement for the abutting cabinets.

Make a rough pencil sketch of the wall where the cabinets will be located, sketching in windows, doors, dropped ceiling (soffit), and any room features that might affect the cabinetry (fig. 1-18). The kitchen being used for instructional purposes in this text has a dropped ceiling 14 in. deep by 136.5 in. long. Upper cabinets are 12 in. deep or 2 in. less than the depth of the soffit. This 2 in. should be maintained as the amount the soffit should extend beyond the end of the right-hand upper cabinet. Make a mark on the wall 2 in. to the left of the end of the soffit. This mark represents the overall length of the cabinets together with the refrigerator featured on this wall. Measure from the left wall to this mark. It is 134.5 in. Measure next from this right end mark to the trim on the right side of the window. This distance represents the overall length of the right-hand upper cabinet. Note that the width allowance for the refrigerator must be determined and incorporated into the design of this section of wall cabinet as well as allowed for in the length of the base cabinet.

Figure 1-18 : Typical Rough Sketch

Carefully measure the distance from the left-hand wall to the left window trim. Jot down the actual measurements in all cases. How much allowance to calculate into the plans of the cabinets will be addressed later. It is good idea to take this measurement in a couple of places – near the top of the window and again near the bottom. If the Windows opening is slightly out of plumb, this would be revealed and compensated for by using the smaller distance. Now mark on the windowsill (or window stool if installed) the exact center of the window unit. Measure the distance in inches  from the left wall to the mark indicating the window center. This is important if the sink is to be installed under the window, to be certain that the center of the sink exactly lines up with the center of the window.

Measure the height from the floor to the underside of the dropped ceiling – or to the ceiling if there is no soffit. Also measure the top of the window trim to the ceiling if the cabinets are to be built and installed above the window. The thickness of the floor underlayment should also be taken into consideration if not already installed. 

If the cabinet is to fit between two walls , check the overall measurements carefully from wall to wall. Make one measurement along the floor next to the wall. Take another measurement about 2 ft. out from the wall. Buildup of plaster in the corners or tape and cement in the corners could result in considerable variation. Use the shorter measurement if the variation is over 1/8 in. or so. If the variation is only 1/8 in. or a bit more, the tolerances built into the cabinet will be enough to allow the cabinet to slip into place. This allowance will be discussed in the section that follows on the cabinet plan. 

Finally, be certain to check the room layout so as to be certain that the finished cabinet can be removed into position through the doors, hallways, and so on, making after being built in the shop, could not be carried into the area for which they were intended. 

Standards for Cabinet Construction - Measurements to Follow

Because the appliance industry  has standardized its products as to height and depth, cabinetmakers have followed suit and maintain standard dimensions in their products. Cabinet height, for example, is almost universally manufactured at 36 in. from the floor to the top of the counter, and a depth - front to rear - of 24 in. These standards conform to the 36 in. height of kitchen stoves and the height of the under-the-counter dishwashers. Only in the rare instances of an exceptionally tall homemaker (or a short one) does the custom cabinet builder vary from these two dimensions. 

Upper cabinets are universally 12 in. deep and 32 in. high. These standards maintain the recommended distance of 16 in. between the base cabinets and the upper units. The soffit or dropped ceiling is usually 12 in. high, giving an overall height of 96 in. - the universal floor-to-ceiling height in most homes today. The 16 in. between the base and upper cabinets is maintained even in the vent that the homeowner desires the upper cabinets built all the way to the ceiling. This is not unusual, especially in older homes undertaking a kitchen remodeling and when a drop ceiling is not desired. After all, there still is a substantial amount of good storage space for seasonal and rarely used items in that space above the kitchen window. The homeowner often seeks out the customer cabinetmaker fro that very reason - to have the individual's own design features incorporated into cabinetry. 

In many modern homes the soffit is omitted altogether and the space simply left open between the upper cabinets and the ceiling. Often a decorative railing is built around the top of the cabinets, which adds a nice touch. This space, although a dust catcher, can be used for displaying decorative plates, silver pieces, or other bric-a-brac.

The standards of the cabinetmaking industry have been arrived through years of development, cooperation with kitchen appliance manufacturers, and the desirability of making the most economical use of the lumber, plastic, laminates, and hardware available for the building of cabinet. Variation from these standards should be undertaken with caution, as strange variations can often have unexpected consequences. A home with unusually high kitchen countertops order especially for a 6-ft.-tall housewife might find resale a few years later quite difficult in a home-buying market populated by homemakers who average closer to 5 ft. 2 in. in height. 

Another advantage of confronting to the standards is that the cabinetmaker can quickly learn the height and depth measurements of the cabinet parts, as these the reason kitchen cabinets lend themselves to mass production. Many of the internal pieces that are concerned only with the height and depth of the cabinet can be turned out in quantity and stockpiled to be used later on the assembly line of the manufacturing plant.

Kitchen Layout Ideas

Source: iseecubed

Although changes do take place in the theory of kitchen layouts and seemingly this area has become an increasingly more important space in today's smaller homes, the general layouts are still basic: The corridor, L-shaped and U-shaped layouts. Each is planned around the three major appliances: refrigerator, sink and range. Peninsula and island kitchens are variations of the basic layouts. Ideally, the refrigerator should be located near the service door with an adjoining counter for unloading. Ordinarily, the sink comes between the refrigerator and the range. Work space between the sink and the range requires an absolute minimum of 36 in.

The Corridor Layout

This layout requires an 8-ft minimum room width to provide 4 ft. between counters. In the corridor layout, counter space is broken and traffic must pass through the work area - always an undesirable feature in any layout. For working efficiency, the sink and range should be on the same wall with a minimum of 30 in. at the end of the sink nearest the wall and a minimum of 24 in. on the side of the range nearest the opposite wall. The length of space between should be 36 in. On the opposite wall, the refrigerator and the wall over may be at the ends, with an eating or work area between.

The U-Shaped

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The One-wall

This layout is acceptable when space is limited. The sink should be in the center, with the longest counter space between the sink and the range for food preparation. The refrigerator may be on one end, with the door opening toward the work area, and a wall oven may be on the other end.

The L-Shaped

This layout was found to be the most efficient. This arrangement provides an uninterrupted work area and leaves two wall free for doors, a cleaning closet, table and chairs. Ample outer space is desirable near the dining area for quick meals and occasional snacks.

How About the Island and Peninsula?

The island kitchen may be within an "L" or a "U." In some plans the island contains the surface cooking units and a snack bar. In other plans, the island contains a trash receptacle, a second sink, and a dishwasher. It actually combines an L-shape and corridor or a U-shape and corridor. An island is inefficient when one has to cross the floor between range and sink, and hazardous when the range is too near the table.

The peninsula makes use of one arm of the U- or L-shaped kitchen by backing up an existing or laundry area. The peninsula may be a divider between the kitchen and dining room with a double width-counter. Cabinets may be suspended from the ceiling back to back (or doors on both sides of a single-width cabinet) to provide cabinet access for both areas. The space between the wall cabinets and lower cabinets is usually open for a pass-through effect.

Modern Kitchen Design

Source: iseecube

Modern living and kitchens of today generally require a generous work area with plenty of space for culinary pursuits. This space, while generous, should also be compact enough for efficiency – where everything is close and convenient. The home-makers of today also seem to demand a space for eating either in the kitchen or in a very close proximity to the kitchen. Other considerations might well be planning a kitchen area that is close to an outdoor dining area, a preschooler’s play area, and in creating a kitchen that is an attractive place – one that is pleasant and cheerful as well as efficient. 

How much space should be devoted to all of this? Two important studies done at two of our leading universities have influenced tremendously the design and size of modern kitchens. The Cornell Kitchen Study tells us that a kitchen’s minimum size should be 80 sq. ft., but recommends 95sq. ft. for greater efficiency and 112 sq. ft. if a wall oven and washer are built in. To have an eating area in the kitchen, you need a room at least 11 ft. by 12 ft. Thus it would seem that the average family will want at least 100 sq. ft., arranged for a central location that is convenient to all parts of the house and to outdoor living areas, yet remains outdoor traffic patterns. 

The “Rule of Twenty-Two”

The efficient kitchen has what we call a "work triangle," composed of the cooking, mixing and sink centers. The sum of the distances between these three should not exceed 22 feet. It is recommended that this triangle have from 4 to 6 feet between range and sink (measured from the center fronts of the appliances), 4 to 7 feet between refrigerator and sink, and 4 to 9 feet between range and refrigerator. They maintain that a work triangle with a total distance of from 15 to 22 feet is considered satisfactory.

Efficiency will be improved if there are no more that 4 feet between cabinets and appliances on opposite walls, 3 feet between cabinets placed at right angles, 4 feet between appliances placed at right angles, 3 feet in front of an over door and 16 inches between the counter top and the cabinet above it. Where there are cabinets over the range, there should be 24 inches of clearance between the range top and the cabinets. It should be well to double check the local building code, especially for the clearances dimensions over the stove.

The Corridor Kitchen

L-Shaped Kitchen

U-Shaped Kitchen